シミ対策化粧品と数年間使ってきたビーグレンとアンプルール。私の感想を書いてみます。

わたしはハイドロキノンが配合されている化粧品として有名なビーグレンとアンプルールを数年間ずつ使ってきました。個人的な感想になりますが両製品の使用感や効果について紹介したいと思います。

スポンサーリンク

シミの基礎知識

シミとはなんでしょう?肌にあらわれる茶色や黒い斑点を一般に「シミ」と呼んでいます。

どうしてシミはできるのか?

皮膚は大きく分けて表皮・真皮・皮下組織の三層からなります。表皮は角質層・顆粒層・有棘層・基底層の四つの層に分けられます。「美肌」に興味がある方はメラニン=シミのもとと思っているからかもしれませんがメラニンは紫外線から肌を守るために大切な働きをしています。では、メラニンはどのような働きをしているのでしょうか?皮膚が紫外線を浴びるなどの刺激を受けるとメラノサイトが活性化します。メラノサイトは基底層にあって紫外線などの刺激を受けるとメラニン色素を造り出し、真皮に紫外線がとどいて細胞内のDNAが傷つかないようにブロックする作用があります。造り出されたメラニン色素はターンオーバーでエスカレーター式に押し上げられて垢としてはがれ落ちますが、紫外線などの過剰な刺激やターンオーバーの乱れなどがメラニン色素の排泄を滞らせてシミとなってしまうのです。

シミの種類

一般に『シミ』と呼ばれるものは皮膚にできる茶色や黒色の斑点で、アザや皮膚がんなどの病気を除いたものです。
シミの種類  できやすい部位      皮膚の変化                      原因
老人性色素斑:頬骨の高い部位や頬全体。 メラノサイトの活性化と増加で表皮や角質層が厚くなる。 紫外線、老化
       身体にもできる。
脂漏性角化症:頬骨の高い部分やこめかみ。メラノサイトの活性化と増加、表皮や角質層が厚くなる。 紫外線、老化
       額、身体にもできる。   角質層の肥厚が進み表面からイボ状に見える。
肝斑    :頬骨の高い部分、額、鼻。 メラノサイトの活性化。                女性ホルモンバランスの乱れ
雀卵斑(ソバカス):鼻を中心に頬骨の
       あたりに散らばったように出来る。メラノサイトの活性化。             遺伝
炎症性色素沈着:どこにでもできる。   メラノサイトの活性化と増加。             ニキビや傷などによる炎症。
                                               摩擦や刺激でもできる。
花弁状色素斑:背中、胸。        メラノサイトの活性化と増加。             紫外線(海水浴等による急激                                              な日焼け)

シミの予備軍

肌の奥の方にメラニンが蓄積している状態を『シミの予備軍』と呼んでいるようです。ほとんどの人が特殊な機械で肌を見てみるとシミの予備軍があります。

シミに効く成分

シミに効くという成分はメラノサイトがメラニン色素を作るのを邪魔する成分のことです。医薬部外品はある程度効果が認められた成分(厚生労働省が認可しているもの)が配合されています。医薬部外品として扱われていない成分でもメラニン合成をおさえる作用があるものもあります。

厚生労働省が認可している代表的な成分

アルブチン:コケモモから抽出された成分で、チロシナーゼの働きを阻害する。
コウジ酸:麹のコウジ菌が造り出した成分で、チロシナーゼの働きをおさえる作用がある。
ビタミンC誘導体:ビタミンCを肌に吸収しやすい形にかえたもの。チロシナーゼの抑制効果や炎症をおさえる作用がある。
ルシノール:シベリアのもみの木に含まれている成分で、チロシナーゼ活性を阻害する。
ロドデノール:メラニン生成を抑制効果や黒色メラニンを減少させる働きがある。
トラネキサム酸:メラノサイトの樹状突起けいせいに対して抑制的に働きかける。チロシナーゼ(メラニン色素をつくり出す色素細胞メラノサイトだけが持っている酸化酵素)の働きをおさえる作用がある。
TCX(トラネキサム酸セチル塩酸塩):メラノサイトの活性を阻害する。
4MSK:たまったメラニン色素を排出する。

その他
ハイドロキノン:チロシナーゼの働きをおさえる作用がある。皮膚科などで処方される薬剤。濃度が高いと刺激が出ることがある。
油溶性甘草エキス(グラブリジン):甘草という漢方薬から抽出した成分で、チロシナーゼを抑制する働きがあるとされている。
                 消炎作用もあり比較的かぶれにくい。

シミの対策法

シミは一度できてしまうと自分で消すのはなかなか難しいものです。今あるシミは昨日浴びた紫外線が今日シミになるというものではなく、長い期間浴びた紫外線などの外的刺激が原因となっているのです。セルフケアをして行く上で長期戦を覚悟で化粧品や身体の内側からのケアを続けることが大切です。

日焼け止め

紫外線対策に「日焼け止め」は常識となっていますが、日焼け止めに対して「SPF値の高い日焼け止めなら大丈夫」と思っている人が多いようです。しかし、日焼け止めは朝一度塗っただけでは紫外線対策としては不十分で、時間経過とともに効果が低下するので2時間おきに塗り直しが必要です。日焼け止めを使う量も問題で、一回にパール1個分くらいを塗って紫外線対策をしたつもりになっている人が多いようです。日焼け止めは顔全体で500円玉大の量が適切と言われています。メーカーによっては使用量の目安を明示しているので、それを守って使用するのが効果的な使い方といえます。どんなにSPFが高いものやPA+が多いものでも日焼けを完全に防ぐのはムリです。日焼け止めの補助として帽子や日傘、スカーフなどを上手に使い分けましょう。

紫外線を浴びてしまったら

紫外線対策をしていてもうっすらと日に焼けてしまったということがありますよね。某皮膚科医によると「一度、焼いてしまったものは残念ながらもとには戻せません。時間が経って白く戻ったように見えても肌の奥には紫外線の記憶が刻まれています。」と言っていました。日に焼けてしまったら気休めではありますがビタミンC誘導体の化粧水を使ってみてください。ビタミンCの服用は日に焼ける前には有効ですがあとから飲んでもシミ予防にはならないそうです。

内側からのケア

シミ対策に化粧品に頼ってしまいがちですが、やはり細胞を生まれ変わらせるには食事ですね。美肌効果があると言われている栄養素を含んだ食材を摂りたいですよね。

ビタミンC:活性酸素を除去する抗酸化作用にすぐれていて、メラニンの生成を抑制する作用があります。
ビタミンCといえば果物を思い浮かべますが、白い野菜にはビタミンCが多く含まれています。白菜、レンコン、ジャガイモ、カリフラワーなどがおすすめです。ビタミンCは一度にたくさんとっても尿に排泄されてしまうのでこまめな摂取が肝心です。

ビタミンB2:新陳代謝を正常にする作用があります。肌の代謝を高めてメラニンの排出を促進が期待できます。
含まれている食材はレバー(牛・豚・鶏など)、うなぎ、納豆、卵などです。

L-システイン:新陳代謝を活発にしてメラニンの排出を促す作用があります。
含まれている食材は鶏肉や牛肉などの肉類、マグロ・カツオなどの青魚、牛乳、チーズなどの乳製品、豆腐、納豆などの大豆製品です。ビタミンCと一緒にとると相乗効果が現れると言われています。

アスタキサンチン:抗酸化作用が高く、肌の老化を防ぐ作用があると言われています。含まれている食材は鮭、イクラ、エビ・カニなどの甲殻類です。

ポリフェノール、エラグ酸(ポリフェノールの一種):抗酸化作用があり活性酸素を除去する働きがある。メラニン色素の生成をおさえる作用がある。含まれている食材はイチゴ・ラズベリー・ブラックベリーやナッツ類、お茶、大豆などです。

肌に良いとされる食材を上手に組み合わせて内側からケアをしていきましょう。

ドクターズコスメとは

ドクターズコスメとは皮膚科医などが開発を手掛けた化粧品(ビーグレンはブライアン・ケラー医師、アンプルールは高瀬聡子医師)を意味しています。シミやしわ、ニキビなど肌の悩みやトラブルを診察室で診ているいる医師ならではの視点で開発されているため、効果が高い、肌によい成分が多く配合されているなどの機能的な化粧品となっています。例えば美白成分のハイドロキノンが含有されている化粧品が多数ありますが、有効にアプローチするだけの量が配合されていなかったり、必要以上に入っているため肌に悪影響を与えてしまうようなものが存在します。しかし、ドクターズコスメは医師が開発したために安全性に信頼がおける点が人気の理由と言えます。

化粧品の選び方

「美白」と謳っている化粧品が星の数ほどあってどれを選んだら良いのか悩みますよね。化粧品を選ぶときのちょっとしたコツがあります。

1:「効きそう」「良さそうなこと書いてある」「有名だから」で選ばずに知識を身につけて自分にあったものを選ぶ。
2:ビタミンC誘導体、甘草エキス、ハイドロキノン、カモミラETなど医学的に評価の高い美白成分を選ぶ。
3:値段にとらわれない。しかし、高ければいいというものでもないし安ければいいというものでもない。美容液は5000円から1万円くらい、化粧水は3000円から5000円くらいが成分にあった価格と言えそう。
4:美白美容液は長く使い続ける。目移りして変えるよりも長く使い続けたほうがわかりやすい。

ハイドロキノン配合の化粧品

ハイドロキノンは皮膚科で処方される薬剤の1つで、できてしまったシミを消すことができる成分であると言われています。

ハイドロキノンはメラニン生成の際に働くチロシナーゼ酵素の活性を抑える効果があると言われ、チロシナーゼの活性において約100倍の抑制力があるという研究結果が出ています。過剰に増加したメラニン色素も還元作用によって薄くする働きがあるとも言われています。

しかし、ハイドロキノンは酸素や光に対して不安定であるや皮膚に刺激を感じること等の理由により、日本では医師の処方箋が必要でしたが2001年の薬事法改正で規制が緩和されて化粧品への配合が許可されました。

不安定な面を持っている成分なだけに一般の化粧品へは配合が難しいと言われていましたが、今から数年間にビーグレンとアンプルールにはハイドロキノンが配合されていると知って自分なりに調べて使ってみることにしました。

ビーグレンを調べてみた

ビーグレンのハイドロキノンは肌の安全性を考慮して配合量は控えめになっていますが、目的のところにとどく浸透力に力を入れている化粧品です。いまでは浸透力とかナノ化とかは多くの化粧品に取り入れられていますが、私が使い始めた約7年前はあまり耳にしたことがありませんでした。化粧品に浸透力を取り入れられたのは開発者のドクターケラーが腫瘍を治療する薬を研究していた方法、つまり腫瘍に直接、薬が届く技術を応用したからなのです。「腫瘍を研究していた医師がなんで化粧品?」とおもうかもしれませんよね。それは『奥様』のためなんです。奥様がアレコレと使っている化粧品をふと見るとこれは効かないと思い、試しに作ったのを渡したところ、最初は疑心暗鬼でしたが使った翌朝は笑顔で起きてきたということです。旦那様が奥様のためというのが泣かせますね。

ビーグレンは防腐剤を使用していると書いてありました。化粧品の売り文句に『防腐剤フリー』とありますが、これって変だと思ったことありませんか?ペットボトルに入っている水だって封を開けておくと数日もすると腐ってきますよね。つまり、防腐剤フリーとは
厚生労働省が指定している防腐剤は使用していないということにすぎないのです。指定されていないものを使っているので安全ではないとも考えられます。ですからビーグレンは正直に防腐剤を使用していると言っているところが信用できるなと思いました。

ビーグレンを使ってみて

ビーグレンを約7年使いました。

使用開始時は全商品はアメリカ製でしたが、数年経過した頃ふと気がつくと『Cセラム』以外は日本製に変わっていました。アメリカ製のときは化粧水はサッパリとした使用感だったのが日本製に変わった頃にはちょっとトロミが付いたように感じました。サッパリとしていたほうが浸透しているような気がします。

ハイドロキノン配合の化粧品は人によってピリピリとした刺激があると聞いていましたがビーグレンの『ホワイトクリーム』はピリピリとした刺激やかゆみなどをまったく感じませんでした。夫から「肌が明るくなった」と言われましたが年々シミが増えて行くのが我慢ならず使用をやめました。

アンプルールを調べてみた

アンプルールは従来のハイドロキノンを安定させる物質BCDACを合成させてできた「新安定型ハイドロキノン」になっています。従来のハイドロキノンより酸化しにくく、湿度や熱などにも耐性ができ白効果が保たれてる製品になったそうです。これまでのハイドロキノン配合製品よりずっと安定して効果が発揮される上に肌に対する刺激感がなくなり安心して使えるようになった化粧品のようです。

アンプルールの開発ディレクターを務めるのは皮膚科医の高瀬聡子医師で『ウォブクリニック中目黒』で開業をされています。実際に使用して肌トラブルなどが起きた時には診てもらえるという安心感がありますね。高瀬医師は総院長を努めているので、ご本人に診てもらえるかは・・・まぁ~わかりません。

アンプルールを使ってみて

アンプルールを使いはじめて約2年になります。

化粧水・美容液・シミ集中用美容液の三点を使っています。

化粧水はちょっとトロミがあるように見えますがつけるとベタつきはなく、さっらとしてしています。ハイドロキノン配合ということですが刺激感はありません。ハイドロキノンが入っていると夜だけという感じがしますが朝夜の使用がOKなんです。

美容液は見た目は白色で、乳液とクリームの中間という使用感です。ピリピリとした刺激などは感じません。しかもハイドロキノン配合にもかかわらず朝夜つけられるのがうれしいですね。

シミ集中用美容液は化粧水・美容液とは違い夜のみの使用になっています。顔を洗った後に化粧水の前に気になるシミにトントンとのせる感じで使っています。つけてもピリッとした刺激はなく翌朝赤くなっているなんてことはありません。

今のところ三点を使ってみてシミは増えてはいません。

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