年配サーファーとクラッシュ!板を陥没させてしまった。車泊のサーフィン小旅行をしていた頃のエピソード

サーフィン 特集

僕はサーフィンが好きすぎて田舎に移住し高知県の端くれの足摺岬というサーフィンをするには最高のコンディションの中で住んでおり、そこそこのサーフィンテクニックも見せたりもします。現在は40代だけど初老に鞭打ってそれでも頑張るおっさんサーファーです。

以前は大阪に住んでいて20歳くらいからサーフィンを始めたんですが、大阪湾でもサーフィンは出来ず車で4・5時間掛けて伊勢国府の浜と言うポイントまで毎週通ってました、まあいわゆる車泊のサーファー小旅行ってやつですねっ。

その時のアクシデント、失敗談を話します。

その時はまだ20歳と言うこともあって仕事のお給料も少なく、毎週のサーフィン旅行は節約して下道で大阪から伊勢まで行ってたんですね。

ちなみに板はひと昔前の70-80年代を思わせる板が一枚だけありましたが、昔の板で強度だけは強く重たかったんですが、その相棒を車に積んでいざ伊勢へと出発し山道を上がっては下りして、やっと夜中過ぎに伊勢国府の浜というポイントに着き、当時はまだ車の運転も慣れていなかったので疲労困ぱいでと同時に駐車場で寝ました。

疲れていたせいでエンジンもかけっぱなしで寝てしまい、明け方近く空が明るくなり駐車場のサーファー達も騒がしくワックスの塗る音などで起きましたが、車のガソリンメーターを見ると出る時には満タンあったガソリンが半分したを指してるではないですか。

来るときはお気に入りのミュージックで夏と言えばレゲー、テンションもアクセルの全快状態でしたが、ガソリンも体力も減るのは早いですね。

まあその頃、僕は楽観的な性格でその年頃でもあったのか、まあ帰れるでしょう的な考えで、その時の所持金も千円ちょっとと飯を食うだけのお金しか持ってきてない状態でしたが、そんな楽観さが仇になって後々もアクシデントに巻き込まれるんですが。

疲れた体に鞭打つように海パンに着替え、最高級の板にワックスを塗りいざゲットアウト、入水して沖へ向かい。

その日は少し波もあり慣れないパドルで波に乗りましたが疲れていたせいか初めの1本目の波で前にいた少し年配のロングボードのサーファーに気がつかず、案の定ガシャっという音とともに2人は揉まれながらクラッシュ。

水中から上がってきた瞬間にすぐさま年配サーファーにどこ見てるんやっの罵声を浴び、少し荒れ気味の波も頭から浴びつつ、年配サーファーから上がれっと言われて板が痛んでないか2人は岸に上がりましたが、僕の板はボロ板なのに無傷、に対して年配サーファーの板は陥没状態です。

ヤバいと思いすぐさまスミマセんの連発でなんとか許してもらえたのですが、夜中の運転疲労と年配サーファーの板を陥没させてしまった事がダブルに重なりテンションがた落ちで、その日はもうサーフィンを出来なくなり昼過ぎ頃に帰ることにしたのですが、来た道は下道のアップダウンの激しい山道、ガソリンは半分したでどう考えても来る時に飛ばしすぎて、ガソリンを使いすぎ低速走行で帰らないと帰れない状態にまで落ち入り、ランプが点灯してから気づくバカな新米サーファーって感じが情けなくて。。

その後も昼飯を食べて残った所持金数百円でどう腹を満たすか考えながら、ランプ点灯危機も体感しながら考えた挙句ローソンに立ち寄り大量に入ったスティックパンをかじりながら帰った記憶は忘れられないですねっ。

車も人間も同じくランプ点灯してからの底力を知りましたが、これは40歳になった今も教訓としては未だ活かされてないように思えます。

サーフィンをするために現在は高知県にお住まいの40代男性の方からの若き日のエピソードでした。

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